I speed away from the breaking shoulder, wind in my hair and the fins slicing through the water sounds like a muffled zipper. ‘WOO HOO!’ I ride up and down the wave, pumping it for speed. ‘Down in front.’ I aim straight toward shore and get out in front of the wave. ‘Lay down,’ I lie down on the board with my hands stretched out in front clutching the tip. ‘Oh take me home baby.’ I ride the white water to shore. I stand in shallow water and tear the Velcro strap that connects the board leash to my ankle. I look out at mother ocean, grinning contentedly while I wrap the leash. I’ve been playing, exerting – writing in graceful arcs with a trail of bubbles left by fins swiftly slicing through blue-green sea – all day long, and there is absolutely no evidence I’ve been there at all. I love that! Well, no evidence except what I feel. My joy has swelled pushing the limits of my skin, like if I open my mouth, hysterical laughter will gush out. Board in hand, I turn from the ocean and. I just couldn’t resist. I don’t know what came over me.”, she said as she let go, but still laughing. “Well, I’m not the only one that seems to be hard.”, I said as I brought my hand up and pointed at one of her nipples. Another drop of sweat fell off of her forehead and landed on her breast just as I was pointing at it. She started laughing and then grabbed the bottom of both of her breasts and held them up as she turned more towards facing me. “I guess while driving your stick shift, my headlights came on!”, she said laughing. “I guess this sweaty thing isn’t hiding much. Is that what made you get that stick shift?”, she said still laughing. “Well, that along with you bent over in those short shorts, when I first came up to your place and as I’m sure you know, you are one gorgeous woman!”, I said. “Oh Dave. thanks. I guess it shows that you really mean that.”, she replied and giggled. Just then my phone rang. I looked and it was my son. “Hello, son. What’s up?”, I said. Donna.
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